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June 25, 2008
Restaurant Quick Pick: 15
Despite the older generation's lingering fear that even stepping outside of your car in Echo Park will somehow get you assaulted or shot or worse (suburban Boomers, I'm looking in your direction!), this increasingly gentrified neighborhood has become a new mecca for intelligent, classy dining. Joining Lot 1 and Masa is Restaurant 15, a hip spot with a cool interior, but also a menu that still seems to be a work in progress. 15's previous claim to fame was its $15 prix fixe menu, featuring house specialties like mac n' cheese and a Kobe burger, but what self-respecting upscale establishment doesn't have both of those items these days?
As of yesterday, however, the restaurant has increased the fixed price to $19 -- still a good deal for three courses in this city, although their burger pales in comparison to the Father's Office and Hungry Cat standard. The lavender-infused french fries, however, are surprisingly deliciousand original. An appetizer of foie gras gets the palate going, but another app of heavy bacon-wrapped figs slows it right back down -- the goat cheese mousse served with the dish is far too light for the density and overpowering sweetness of the figs. Scallops are tasty, and go nicely with a sauce of prosciutto and truffle oil, although the accompanying spring vegetables are perhaps undercooked. There are ample choices for a vegetarian, including the house mac n' cheese and a pappardelle with heirloom tomatoes (the website's menu is different from the house menu). The bread pudding is luscious, although an extra drizzle of caramel would put it over the top.
The space itself is small, but cool and comfortable, with a relaxed Saturday-night vibe. The wine list offers some reasonable choices for a glass or bottle, although the mixed drinks have some wacky names. Although the new $19-at-15 doesn't quite have the same punch to it as $15-at-15, the prix fixe is still a great deal and the menu, while aiming a bit too high, has some definite high points -- take your parents out one night and show them that the neighborhood really has changed.
Photo by RobJTak via Flickr.
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I just want to confirm that there are not "ample" choices for vegetarians at 15 (aka 19). When I last visited, the pappardelle claimed to be vegetarian on the menu in the window but the menu inside said it included meat. The kitchen were not willing to make this without meat or offer any other kind of veggie plate. This leaves the solo vegetarian option of mac and cheese, which also happens to be a small side dish. 15 might be fine for carnivores but please don't misrepresent it as vegetarian-friendly.
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uh ok thanks for being nice about it.
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i'm sorry--did you just say "lavender-infused french fries"? gross.
i miss the salvadoran restaurant that was like eating in someone's home kitchen, where five dollars would buy you a heaping plate of homemade tortillas and chorizo and eggs. and coffee.
do you think 15 could have made SOME kind of gesture to the neighborhood--on its menu, or in its decor or advertising or SOMETHING? it's just so clearly only meant for certain echo park residents that i can't bring myself to go in there. it looks from the outside like what it is--a restaurant for people who can afford to eat in santa monica or beverly hills, and should.
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lavender-infused french fries sound good to me for a try!
Elmer, they could have made a gesture to the hood, but if they didn't, they didn't. And so we'll see if it sticks around or not. If you want to eat in someone's kitchen, I can't recommend a Salvadorian one, but how about a Honduran one?
http://www.laist.com/2007/08/28/at_home_in_hond.php
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lavender seems to be all the rage these days..
http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo-dessertrec25c-2008jun25,0,285315.story
not really but who knows?
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it's completely worked over from it's days as a Salvadorean family-style eatery... although the slanted roof and central doorway with 3 steps still gives it a trailer kindn feel.
The food is good -- the salmon, phenomenal. The kobe burger is a great deal at $12/incl. fries and the works. It's absolutely delicious but knocks me out every time. I guess kobe beef is chock-fulla-fat. who knew?
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To Elmer: There is a cocktail drink called the "Echo Park Woo Woo" (...though, perhaps an expensive drink wasn't the kind of nod you had in mind :)
I happened to recently eat here twice in one week (due to random circumstances)...which apparently makes me feel bold enough to post a way-too-long comment (sorry 'bout that!).
Anyway, I enjoyed the overall friendly vibe - staff and patrons. Both times, I saw spontaneous conversations occur between neighboring tables. And while it may look like a place for westsiders on the outside, the inside vibe felt a lot more grounded.
Speaking as a non-smoker, I also enjoyed the small outside patio which seemed to give dignity to the smoker -- comfortable benches, mood lighting, super-nice TV.
As for food, my date and I really loved the bacon-wrapped figs, and even politely fought over the last piece. My taste buds are not very refined so when unimpressed with the mac n' cheese, I just assumed the dish aimed for more gourmet sensibilities (half the time, I'd just prefer a box of Kraft Mac N' Cheese anyway). But I did enjoy the salmon. I liked the scallops, but loved the sauce more.
As for the larger issue about a place like that in a neighborhood like this, I remain conflicted.
I see Elmer's point that it does cater to a certain type of EP resident. But then again so does the "eating chorizo in someone else's kitchen" (thanks. now I'm hungry for chorizo :)
Plus, I'm really glad the place is not some huge chain restaurant that has no real investment in the neighborhood. As a resident, I like having a new restaurant alternative, within walking distance, for a special occasion.
IMHO, it's too soon to tell if this is a gentrifying trend that squeezes out those who can't afford it...or just another restaurant that adds to the diverse flavor of Echo Park. I'm hoping it's the latter...I'm also hoping for some bacon-wrapped figs in my near future. :)
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For what it's worth, the chef at 15 is Dominican.
I would say that the ratio of upscale/downscale/ethnic/non-group-specific establishments in Echo Park is pretty much in line with the respective groups in the population, at this point.