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Olvera Street's Novenario has all of the pageantry and all of the colorful calaveras characters as similar Dia de los Muertos events, but there is something more. Something sacred. The rituals honoring the dead combine Catholic and indigenous blessings, bringing a solemnity to the occasion. The traditional pre-Columbian Novenaria (nine-night) procession is a traditional ceremony to remember deceased loved ones. It is a moving experience, even more poignant this year because the merchants lost two of their own. As participants lift pots of burning copal incense to the sky, we all remember someone, and even those who do not pray send a silent message to those we have lost.
The ceremonies take place at the beginning, middle and end of the procession. Offerings of incense are made, along with a cleansing sprinkling of water and showers of marigold petals. A conch shell is blown to mark specific points in the ceremony. Even the traditional ceremonial dancing is emotionally intense. Lest things become too serious, the calaveras characters are there to lighten the mood and remind us that this is a celebration. At the end of the ceremony, participants form a line to embrace as a gesture of harmony.
(Photographs taken by Elise Thompson for LAist)
The Olvera Street Merchants present: Novenario
Continuing through Thursday, November 2nd, 7 - 9p
Kiosko, Olvera Street, El Pueblo Historical Monument, 125 Paseo de la Plaza, LA, CA
213.625.7074 www.olvera-street.com
Following each procession, free pan de muerto (sweet bread) and champurrado (a Mexican hot beverage) will be served. Mexican Cultural Institute, in partnership with Olvera Street Merchants Association and El Pueblo Historical Monument present musical performances immediately after the Novenario at Placita de Dolores, Olvera Street
(NOTE: Please do not take photographs during the sacred ceremonies. Photographing the procession is fine, although it is best to wait until the solemn participants leading the procession have passed. The Calaveras are happy to ham it up for the cameras, so feel free to snap away).
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Lovely! People in LA forget that before there was Hollywood Forever & Self Help Graphics there was and is Olvera Street....a great place to go any time but especially this time of year & Xmas.
one tiny correction: that's a conch shell....if you know of a fella that can blow our a tune throw a cowrie shell....well....give him my number.
Although I did attend HO'wood Forevers deallee, I was a bit irritated that they did their dia de los muertos LAST Saturday....I'm sure many folks missed it. It was a huge and far more commercial event and becomes so every year. There were some lovely things there and performances (it even rained a little)...and thank heavens I was able to purchase Cempushil flowers and other things for my own observances at the 11th hour (I carried 4 dozen bouquets around for 2 hours--like a mother nursing a baby) and the crafts for sale rocked. But the basics are always readily available at Olvera St.: bread of the dead, papil picado, sugar skulls and other goodies this time of year. I highly recommend folks getting out there - I think Olvera St. does it's DOTD Festival on Saturday?? or to some of the smaller Day of the Dead events around the South Land for that more intimate, family feeling.
Amazing photos. I HAVE to go to that next year!
Happy Halloween everybody!
Great photos! That pan de muerte looks delicioso!
Continuing until Thursday, Nov. 2? Thursday is Nov. 1. I googled the event, and that error is everywhere, so I think Olvera St. made the mistake. Do you know when the last night is?
I believe it will continue through the 2nd, because traditionally the 1st is when the spirits of lost children and the unmarried return, and the 2nd is when lost adults return.
Also, they are having a full-on Day of the Dead festival the 1st and 2nd, which will be in my next post.
NYX: Cowrie, Conch, OK. I thought Conches were pinker. I guess Cowrie's are the spotted one. There's a shell expert in every crowd.
I should've gone to the website you listed! www.olvera-street.com says "till Nov. 2." (Knee-jerk googling is a bad habit.)
I think we've all googled something (or someone!!!) we regret).