The main draw of this Thai restaurant is the humongous hot dog perched next to the oddly-paired moniker Thai Town Express. The hot dog is a relic of its past as Red’s Hot Dog, and the waitress said that the lease stipulations forbid its removal. Late on a recent Sunday evening, my dinner companion and I were the only diners, but plenty of curious tourists stopped by the fast-food Thai restaurant to snap pictures of the unusual culinary pairing.

The restaurant is on the northwest corner of Hollywood and Western, accessible by the Red Line and on the border of both Little Armenia and Thai Town. Although it appeared to mostly be a take-out operation, it has a lovely outdoor eating area. The service was very friendly and patient with the indecision that always plagues me when I want to try it all, with a willingness to offer suggestions.

Read more about Thai Town Express after the jump...

The back wall was decorated with this mural of birds and horses. Seemed out of place at a Thai restaurant.

We started out the meal with chicken satay, accompanied with a fresh cucumber salad and peanut sauce. I had to forgo most of the appetizer, since one of the side effects of getting clear braces during adulthood has meant sacrificing anything bathed in bright yellow sauces to avoid neon-bright teeth. It was reported to me that the chicken was moist, but that the peanut sauce needed more kick.

Bland taste was a common theme throughout the meal. The Tom Kha Koong, or spicy coconut soup, had a rich brothy taste and was generous with the shrimp and mushrooms, but was seriously lacking spiciness.

I mistakenly ordered the Pad See Ew, thinking I had asked for its spicier counterpart, Pad Kee Mow. This flat-noodle dish had a sweet aftertaste to it, with not-too-fresh broccoli, heavy on the scrambled egg and gushy tofu.

I was certain that the final dish, the roast duck curry would surely be the hit of the night. It had a deep, rich red color and was heavy on duck and pineapple. Surely, this curry would finally make me reach for my water glass! But alas, the curry also lacked the fiery heat I craved all night.

I did enjoy the corny "joke of the day" that comes with every menu. And the leftovers were yummy at home after they were doused with a generous serving of Tapatio.

Maybe it was because I was raised on Mexican food, or maybe it’s because most of my favorite Thai dishes have burned off several taste buds, but I use spiciness as an indicator of the authenticity of a Thai restaurant. The waitress was very willing to accommodate my order, so in any return visits, I’ll be sure to let her know it’s okay to turn up the heat. The appetizer, soup, Thai iced tea and two main entrees came up to $30. At these prices, and with the novelty of the hot dog sign, it’s definitely worth a try.

Thai Town Express
5501 Hollywood Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90028
(323) 962-9099

All photos by Nate for LAist