Tucked into one of the ubiquitous strip mall enclave of business on Hollywood Boulevard in Thai Town, Sapp's Coffee Shop is barely noticeable (and not to mention not terribly attractive as a lead photo--my apologies). I first got a peek at the tiny no-frills joint earlier this year, when one of my favorite (and adventuresome) foodies, Anthony Bourdain, stopped by with a local food blogger to try their authentic Thai Boat Noodles. This dish is a specialty of Sapp's and also works as its unique calling card, since not many restaurants in town serve a soup that uses blood as a thickener.

Yes, I said blood. And before you get too grossed out and/or excited about me trying out the Sapp's specialty, I have to say no, I didn't order it. Not because the idea of the soup is too revolting, but actually because when I headed out to do my eating as part of our Thai One On series it was in the heart of our recent blistering heat wave, (and, I'll confess, it was the meal I had after I took the informative but exhausting tour of Angelino Heights) and the thought of voluntarily putting something hot in my body while sitting in an poorly air conditioned room made me want to pass out in my wooden chair. My co-taster and I scoured the soup and soup-noodle listings and shook our heads; we just couldn't do it.

But there was a whole meal to have at Sapp's for us, so we culled our dishes from four corners of the menu, and had an absolutely delicious time.

Sapp's is a nondescript place inside, dotted with wooden tables and chairs dressed plainly with containers of sauces and spices with which you can accent your food. behind the principal counter are menu boards slathered in Thai with no translations in English, and as the room filled with more patrons, we realized that Sapp's was a popular draw for the local Thai population; yes, we were the only non-Thais in there. But rather than be made to feel like the oddballs in the room, we felt right at home. The entire staff was warm and congenial, happy to explain what any of the dishes were that did not come translated on the menu, and doing all the could to make sure we were comfortable and enjoying their food. This was a great lesson in not being intimidated by any restaurant that operates chiefly--not exclusively--for those who belong in the cuisine's demographic. The temptation to operate within the parameters of the familiar can sometimes thwart a diner's best intentions to eat authentic food from a particular reason, however, we felt right at home in Sapp's.

The first item we selected to try was the Phad Woon Sen (above). We wanted to skip over the standard Pad Thai, so we opted to try this dish of sauteed glass noodles with tomatoes, green onions, onion, and chicken. It was an excellent choice; the noodles were of a lovely light texture and held the smoky, savory sauce quite well, and the veggies and meat, along with the traditional scrambled egg, punctuated the dish perfectly with just the right contrast of snap and bite.

In perusing the menu we encountered many dishes offered only in Thai, and so we were very pleased to be told by our friendly server that Tod Mun was a fried shrimp cake. When they emerged from the precarious swinging doors of the nearby kitchen they had just been plucked fresh from the fryer, and were piping hot. Dipped gently in a bit of sweet sauce these cakes were perfection, with plump shrimp and a light crumbly batter that cushioned the pink crustacean jewels perfectly.

Although the heat was raging strong outside and was keeping us from slurping back hot soup, we did opt to get something of the hot and spicy variety in the form of Chicken with sour bamboo and curry (above). Our waitress looked nervous when we ordered this, which made me wonder if maybe she'd seen her fair share of overzealous non-Thais swear up and down they could handle some spice and then immediately rue their decision. We laughed and told her to bring it on and that we could handle it.

The first bite was a breeze, and I chewed contentedly, noting the coyly bitter note left by the sour bamboo and the heartiness of the chicken. And then came the spice, creeping up the back of my throat the moment my jaw paused, like a dragon reaching its long neck upward and painting a vibrant roar of heat all over the walls of my mouth. It was a delicious thrill, and one that did not lose its effect no matter how many eager mouthfuls I took, and no matter how many long pulls I took on the straw poking out from the crushed ice of my rich and sugary Thai Iced Tea (left). When our server came to check on us we greeted her with grins, and let her know that it was indeed a spicy dish, but one that we loved.

To cool things off a bit we selected Som Tum, which is the classic papaya salad. Sinewy strands of crisp green papaya were bathed in fiery flecks of spice, and the heat battled with the mellow of the tangy fruit. It was nice to have a bite of something light and snappy to contrast the more complex heft of the savory noodles and the heat of the chicken and curry that rode on forkfuls of rice to our mouths.

Sapp's provided us with all sorts of heat, from the spice of their curry dish to the impossibly hot dining area (I joked to my co-taster that the bathroom would have been the most ideal spot in which to enjoy our meal, since it was the coolest area in the restaurant) and I feel primed and ready to hop on board their notorious boat noodles. There will have to be a Sapp's Coffee Shop remix, once the weather has cooled down.

Sapp's Coffee Shop
5183 Hollywood Boulevard
(323) 665-1035
Open 7 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. (closed Wednesdays)
Take Out available

All photos by Lindsay William-Ross for LAist