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August 5, 2007

The Taste of Thailand at Wat Thai Buddhist Temple

golden buddhas

Okay guys, I want you to listen very closely: whatever you're doing today, cancel it. If you can't, cancel what you're doing next weekend. Then, by hook or by crook, by car or by train or by bus or by broom, I want you to - stay with me here, this is going to get difficult - I want you to go deep, deep into the Valley. Follow Coldwater Canyon almost to where it ends, all the way to Roscoe Boulevard. What will you find? Nothing less than culinary enlightenment.

Well, okay, okay: you'll also find the candy-colored towers of the Wat Thai Buddhist Temple, in the middle of a small Thai enclave in the very farthest reaches of North Hollywood. The temple sponsors a food festival every weekend during the summer, but word has it they might be closing after next weekend - so go now, and go quickly! It's just about the closest you'll get to tasting real Thai street food without booking a ticket to Bangkok.

thai%20stalls.jpg Exchange your dollars at the central stand for a handful of colored tokens that you can use to purchase all manner of amazing, delicious, cheap Thai treats: bite into a warm chicken curry dumpling ($1/ea), which is spiked with coconut milk and begging to be washed down with fresh coconut or longanberry juice. Maybe kao niao ma muang - sticky rice and ripe mango - sound like a good breakfast treat. Or you can feast on a myriad of meat and veggie satays; or, better yet, about twenty different noodle bowls and soups ($3/bowl), filled with fresh herbs, vegetables, steaming broth, and the meats: chicken, pork, beef, shrimp, fish cake, pork blood, duck - oh the list of edible animals goes on and on and on! At every shaded table are entire families of Thais slurping away at a little bowlful of home.

juice.jpg

Above: enjoy a freshly squeezed orange, lime, coconut, or longan juice.
Below: Thais line up to get a little bowlful of heaven.

food%20stands.jpg

coconut%20balls.jpgFor dessert, don't miss the little coconut-dough explosions known as kanom krock - a thin, crepe-like dough exterior is magically wrapped around a molten coconut center. Try a fried banana with fried coconut shavings ($3/serving) or a cool Thai iced tea ($1.50). You've got veggie options like green papaya salad and lots of fried fruits and starches, but it's definitely not the same kind of feast for vegetarians as it is for meat-eaters (but anyone can certainly fill their tummy at bargain prices).

outdoor%20buddha.jpg Don't park in the temple lot if you drive; it's easy to find street parking on Roscoe or on Coldwater. This neighborhood, although it looks industrial and barren of all culture, actually has quite a few Thai storefronts and markets (which will be explored more later this week). The heat rising from the pavement is no match for a fresh, cool coconut juice ($1.50), which actually tastes as if you've bitten into a thick, juicy, woody slice of coconut - light, not too sweet, with a hint of a grainy aftertaste, and surprisingly thirst-quenching. Those Thais have got this whole beverage thing figured out.

Once you've sated your morning appetites, slip off your shoes and step into the cool sanctuary of the temple. An old man greets you jovially at the door, while old women count up stacks of dollars that have been tithed as offerings to the gods. Modern young Thais wave incense and kneel together in front of three golden Buddhas - one towers over the others, a picture of perfect repose. The entire atmosphere is relaxed, familial, and benevolent. It just goes to show that even in the vasty wildernesses of the north Valley, you can still discover these serene little pockets of beauty and culinary adventure. A portion of the proceeds from the food stalls goes back to the temple, so you can spend your little red and yellow tokens confident in the knowledge that you aren't just getting a delicious meal, but you're also making sure this little slice of paradise is getting the community support it deserves.

Wat Thai Buddhist Temple
12909 Cantara St. (Coldwater Canyon/Roscoe Blvd.)
North Hollywood 91605
(818) 780-4200

Temple open 9a-9p M-Sa
Food market open until next weekend

All photos by Zach Behrens for LAist

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Comments (4) [rss]
I want you to go deep, deep into the Valley. Follow Coldwater Canyon almost to where it ends, all the way to Roscoe Boulevard.
Point of trivia: if you're wondering just how deep you'll be going into the Valley, you might be amused to know that Roscoe Blvd. is just about the half-way mark.

After Isaac Lankershim and his San Fernando Farm Homestead Association bought Pio Pico's half-interest in the Rancho Ex-Mission San Fernando (which comprised most of Valley) in 1869, the property was divided by having a farmhand plow a long, straight furrow east-to-west, clear across the Valley.

That plowed furrow was where Roscoe Blvd runs today.

Look at a map. Notice how, in the eastern part of the Valley, the street grid changes at Roscoe? That's because it's the old property boundary.

That's why Coldwater Canyon Ave. ends there, curving off to the northeast, and becoming Sheldon St.

-- LA MapNerd

 

I think I might have some sad news for you...the food stands at the Wat Thai are getting shut down. Not for health reasons, but more depressing.

There was a festival a couple weeks ago where one lady parked in front of someone's driveway. The locals are not shy about the fact that they are sick of the Buddhist festivals and the traffic that comes with them. This one resident didn't take to having his driveway blocked very well and made significant damage to the lady's car. Well the lady didn't take it well either and let's just say one thing led to the next and now the actual Wat Thai is part of the conflict.

There has been a lot of political garbage going on between the neighbors of the temple as well as the temple's board.

So I hear that next week is the last day the food stands will be open -- according to my sources.

 

WHAT SERIOUSLY then we should talk about this! Especially because parking isn't much of an issue on the weekend - at least when we went, there was ample parking on Roscoe - and it's very close to a bus line. People should make a serious effort to go check it out next weekend and maybe show that peaceful people-traffic in that area can be a beneficial force in the community.

 

The Militant has some more details on the closure in his blog.

 
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