July 26, 2007
SF Chronicle Totally Disses Los Angeles Restaurants

Warning, Los Angeles foodies: reading Michael Bauer's article on the Los Angeles dining experience might cause your eyes to roll back so far in your head that you will become permanently blind. Bauer, who is the executive food and wine editor at the San Francisco Chronicle, deigns to visit ten of the city's "top" restaurants, and comes away with these insights:
In the Bay Area, food is the driving force of successful restaurants. But in L.A., instead of paying attention to what's on the plate, just about everyone is rubbernecking to see who's in the house. Wasn't that Jake Gyllenhaal I saw at Cut, and Jason Biggs at Mozza?Unlike San Francisco, where tourists constitute a hefty percentage of the patrons at popular places, the Los Angeles dining scene is fueled by locals. The city is so spread out, for example, that it's difficult for conventioneers downtown to get to the top restaurants without renting a car or paying their monthly mortgage payment for a taxi. People have to drive to get anywhere, so restaurants become destinations, with elaborate interiors and high prices.
There's so much wrong with these paragraphs that I don't even know where to begin - first of all, does the man actually believe that Jason Biggs is still a star? Second of all, hasn't downtown Los Angeles always been a mecca for great restaurants (let's see, Ciudad, Water Grill, R23, Blue Velvet, Roy's, just to name a few standouts) that are easily accessible by public transit - or, for downtown residents, by WALKING? And lastly, in a city whose culinary identity has been influenced by literally hundreds of different cultures and cuisines, perhaps the most diverse and exciting gastronomic landscape in the world -- how dare he say that we don't care about what's on the plate?
But no, apparently we are all superficial studio-types who give more consideration to our headshots than our dinners, unlike our oh-so-sophisticated-and-profound Northern brethren:
It was clear we weren't in San Francisco when I heard a diner on one side talking about Universal Studios and the television shows he's involved with, and a diner on my other side chatting with his date about the movie he was working on.
Maybe if the man had visited a few restaurants outside of the rarified palaces of cuisine that made up his hit list: Cut, Spago, Patina, Pizzeria Mozza, Providence (looks like he was there the same night I was), Lucques, etc. Yes, these are all fantastic "destination" restaurants, but they don't even begin to describe the true breadth and depth of the Angeleno palate.
Hey Michael: here's a few suggestions for your next trip out here. While you're struggling to find a taxi downtown, stop in at Phillipe's. Once you've given up and decided to get on the Metro, take it down to San Pedro and enjoy some fish tacos. Make your way back up to the Westside, and dig into a Godmother at Bay Cities Deli. Move inland and hit up every taco truck and stand you can find. Finish your day out with a big fat juicy Double Double with grilled onions, and fries Animal style.
Or better yet - let's put him in a room with Jonathan Gold. I doubt he'd come out alive. In fact, he'd probably be spitted, roasted, and eaten with some really fantastic sauce.
Photo of one of LA's finest culinary experiences by SeraphimC via flickr



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Reminds me of the South Park episode about SF and how they're so smug they like the smell of their own farts.
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Hear, hear. As someone born and raised in Los Angeles, nothing grates on my nerves more than people who claim that L.A. is devoid of culture in one way or another. I've been to tons of restaurants and for the most part, I have not been subjected to the kinds of studio "shop-talk" that Michael Bauer complains about. He sounds like the kind of visitor who laments that L.A. has nothing to offer whilst he sits on top of the mechanical bull at Saddle Ranch. L.A is full of great places to eat; Michael Bauer is just too lazy to look for them.
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Get with it, Frisco! Even NY food critics have bowed down to the great Angeles lately. Though the Militant makes a pilgrimage to the mega-awesome Straits Cafe on Geary each time he is in Frisco, its Thai restaurants can't compare to Thai Town or North Hollywood, heck even OC has better Thai fare (Ooooh, Moted!) And I won't even go into how inferior the Mexican food is up there...that would be kicking a dead horse.
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Oh yeah Friscans: NO IN-N-OUT FOR YOU!
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How is overhearing conversations about television shows or films so godamned off-putting? Unless the person doing the yapping has his head completely up his ass, I don't see how this is any worse than overhearing any other type of conversation.
This demonstrates the typical SF attitude: they care about what surrounding patrons are discussing--not what is on the plate.
This guy is clueless.
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I've seriously never been around all these people talking about movies either and I'm an L.A. native as well. Then they say we're cocky or prissy. I've not had the occasion to be able to afford these pricey meals Mr. Bauer sampled but I can say with conviction that L.A. has great food and it usually doesn't cost you any more than it would in another city of its size.
They have to hate what they can't be.
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who cares? let them stay away. more fish tacos for us!
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his choices are those of a fraidy-cat visitor from the burbs....did he look in Frommer's for LA's best restaurants? One expects a restaurant critic to make more informed choices....Mozza, of course, but Patina? Hasn't the "emperor's new clothes" word about that place been out long enough for those in the know to get it?
Bauer's article really made me mad. Get thee to Pie 'n' Burger, infidel!
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...and in San Francisco you would sit next to two poorly dressed programmers at a $200/plate restaurant talking about their most recent project for google. Way to write a fluff piece, Mr. Bauer...
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His article is SF snobbery at its best-- taking the worst of Hollywood (and the Hollywood "scene") and applying it to Los Angeles as a whole.
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The thing I'm wondering about... is why does he think it's a bad thing that locals are populating all the restaurants? If anything else, it seems like that would be BETTER for restaurants rather than banking their futures on a fickle tourist crowd. In fact, the tourist crowd populating a restaurant scene probably leads itself to being MORE and not less, "uppity."
The first thing you learn when going to a different city or a foreign country is to actually GET AWAY from the touristy places and "go where the locals go." That's a good rule, and this guy needs to learn it. Nah, he should probably just stay up in PrissyCal.
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Way to do your research Mr. Bauer. If there's anything I've learned from traveling, a good place to start looking for the best local food is in an alternative weekly, NOT the "Welcome to [insert city here" magazine that you find in your hotel room, which you obviously did.
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Typical San Francisco native doing his best to create the appearance of a LA-SF rivalry, when in reality the people up North take it WAY more seriously than we do down here.
Honestly, if I have to hear one more SF resident blather on about how 'superficial' and 'fake' LA is, while in the same breath go on and on about how 'real' SF is, I think I am going to vomit.
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We should send Werner Herzog up there to terrorize him:
"When I read the Chronicle I see nothing but fornication, copulation, and death. The San Francisco birds do not sing, they are screeching in pain."
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What?
Well, the last time I went to San Francisco my friend took me to the Hooters by the wharf and the food was subpar so obviously all of San Francisco is terrible and the people can't dress.
See, I can do it, too. Sheesh.
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And yet I've read three or four posts on LA-centric blogs about this story already--which seems to contradict everyone's insistence that San Franciscans are the only ones who fabricate an SF-LA rivalry.
This article was clearly a puff piece for the high-level executive types who travel to LA on a corporate expense account and need a handful of high-profile restaurants for entertaining clients. These are not the kind of people who will seek out a taco truck in pursuit of culinary epiphany.
Besides, why is anyone even paying attention to Bauer's article when Jonathan Gold's Pulitzer-caliber food writing is ready to take us off the beaten path?
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the "totally disses" byline blows things WAY out of proportion. the way he framed his article was meant to appeal to his SF audience, and it fits the popular (and often accurate) perception of LA. the restaurants he went to are the places that were RECOMMENDED TO HIM as the "best of LA," and you can't deny that hollywood pervades those spots.
if you actually read the article, he has many great and insightful things to say about the LA food scene at the restaurants he visited. he also disclaimed the fact that he didn't have the time to explore LA's incredibly diverse and top-notch ethinic cuisine, which he admits makes "make dining in Los Angeles so satisfying." LA does ethnic cuisine better than any other city, bar none.
i don't know that our high-end fancy pants dining can live up to SF's reputation just yet, but i wouldn't know. i generally can't afford to eat at those kind of restaurants.
and ps: in-n-out exists in SF too.
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I'm sorry, Albs, I don't really see what sort of insight he offered into the LA dining scene - most of the restaurants he covered have been extremely well documented (often by this very website) - he couldn't find anywhere more original to eat than Spago? Or Lucques? These are all stories we've heard a million times before.
And I enjoy hyperbole; perhaps I shall amend the headline to say: "SF Chronicle writer gives L.A. restaurant scene a back-handed compliment that ends up just sounding tired and uninspired." Is that a more precise depiction of the article? Or are we to remain bogged down in semantics?
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In a nutshell, he's right. LA has always lagged behind SF, NYC, Seattle, Portland, Chicago, etc. List goes on. Admit it everyone. We could and SHOULD be a lot better. All these restaurants that have been mentioned here are popular because of their status as places to be seen, not places to have an extraordinary meal. With the amount of money and influence in this city, we should have a great restaurant on every corner. I find most of the place in town put their emphasis on decor and marketing than they do in creating great food and an interesting menu. LA is a place where people open restaurants to invite to create a scene, not because they love food.
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your use of "totally" is what bugs. did he diss LA? yeah, ok maybe he did. but did he say LA restaurants are terrible? no, not at all. his review was generally positive, not a total rip on LA. he even acknowledges that LA has more to offer than what he covered and that he ignored one essential aspect of LA dining: ethnic cuisine.
but you're right, "LA is fake" is a tired cliche. his writing is weak and his choice of restaurants sucked.
his insights? um, that LA's most recommended fine dining establishments are Hollywood-ed out with (local) industry types.. is that inaccurate? the hottest places in town are invariably hot only because celebrities are going there, not because the food is actually good (when in fact, it is actually good).
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"Unlike San Francisco, where tourists constitute a hefty percentage of the patrons at popular places, the Los Angeles dining scene is fueled by locals."
Is this person seriously trying to say that restaurants teeming with tourists are superior to those that are patronized by locals? What?
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When people move here and constantly bitch about what's wrong with LA, I wonder, "Then why are you here?"
She listed the downtown restaurants in response to this specific assertation:
"The city is so spread out, for example, that it's difficult for conventioneers downtown to get to the top restaurants..."
So if we suck so much. why are you here? Is it worse to be a pussy living in a pod car, or someone reading about pussies living in pod cars?
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go back to san francisco you stupid hippie.
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#22. Please. I live near Wilshire/Western and take the purple line to my job at an environmental consulting firm everyday. I also take the bus when necessary. As of present, my boyfriend and I make a combined income that goes way into the six-figure range. We're not students nor are we "poor" or blue-collar. I make a lot of generalizations, too, but you are just straight up wrong in your post.
But back to the article. I really don't have an arugment about SF vs. LA restaurants in general, but I really hate how a lot of mexican eateries in SF serve black beans instead of pinto/refried. Gross! Black beans, when mashed, looks like dog poo. When not, it still looks like a pile of dead roly-poly bugs.
Anyhoo, I'll always side with LA over SF cos LA is my home. Oh, and SF doesn't have a King Taco. Mmmm mmmm good!
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I'm an LA native, but I live in SF (and read SFist) now.
I read Bauer's article in the Chronicle the morning it came out, without the LAist preface that the article was a slam on LA. I didn't take it as such.
Bauer was a tourist in LA, and his guide was a writer from Los Angeles mag-- so of course he is going eat Westside buzz restaurants frequented by "industry" types-- isn't that what Los Angeles mag is all about? Of course he isn't going to have a full understanding of LA dining, and is going to fall back on stereotypes (that can be reinforced at places like Spago). He acknowledged his missing out on LA's great ethnic restaurants. (And yes, Thai food is better in LA. And Straits Cafe is no longer on Geary--it's gone upscale, and downhill, at the new SF Centre mall).
Bauer did say that LA restaurants tend to do a better job at service, which is true.
The idea of an LA/SF rivalry is tired, and in recent years I've mostly seen SF reviewers of LA focus on what they like about LA.
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I agree with the poster above. I grew up in LA and live in SF now. Bauer wrote in his blog today about the bashing he got from LA bloggers regarding the article he wrote. I was sort of surprised.
I love the food scene in LA and I thought the article was an accurate representation of someone who likes food and is a visitor to LA looking for something along the lines of the Delfinas, Michael Minas or Gary Dankos that visitors seek when visiting SF. I also thought the comment about locals dining in LA was complementary. I like that the locals fuel the restaurant scene in LA rather than tourists.
Yes, the ethnic food blows SF out of the water. There is actually no comparison. There is no place like Langers in SF, or even damn good Korean at 3AM. But to highlight LA as a dining destination you kind of have to look at the pricier places. That's just the way it goes.
Anyway, look at the article in the Times a few weeks ago about the boom of chefs going over to Century City to open restaurants and the agents they have to impress. Yes, it's not the only industry in LA, but it is a pretty notable one--just like us Bay Area crazy hippies! ;-)
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Good lord, even LA blog comments lack substance.
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Damn you guys are sensitive. I think the mutual inferiority complex thing is right on.
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Wow look at everyone's panties in a bunch. Chill out people. In SF we go out to eat so we can, well eat. In LA you ask for a restaurant recomendation and it is always followed by "oh and it's a great place to be seen." But we don't care. That must explain why so many celebs come up here to be left alone to eat and not be "seen"
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If Angelina Jolie is sitting a couple feet away from you, you're gonna look. Anyone in Frisco who says that they wouldn't are either full of it or castrated, which is not to say that everyone is staring at each other in LA. Star sightings in restaurants, even in LA, don't happen regularly.
I do think that SF is superior in "dining" which is not the same as places for "eating." The breadth and scope of "ethnic" cuisine in Los Angeles is second to none. Sorry New York.
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"So if we suck so much. why are you here? Is it worse to be a pussy living in a pod car, or someone reading about pussies living in pod cars?
It's worse to be a pussy living in a pod car. When you are merely *reading* about pussies living in pod cars, you're merely reading about the pathetic. When you ARE the pussy living in a pod care, you ARE PATHETIC.