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Now a “career woman", Leilani Wertens searches for the perfect meal during her lunch hour in an oft neglected part of Los Angeles—the newly revitalized downtown district. Read about her weekly culinary adventures on LAist.
There are some Los Angeles restaurants that have been around for so long and revered by so many that they become institutions in of themselves, think The Pantry, Philippe’s the Original or Canter’s Deli. Some, like Pink’s, cater mainly to tourists while others remain open 24 hours to cater to Angelinos that are always ready to eat. After three years of living and dining in Los Angeles I’ve had my fair share of eating at these “classic” restaurants and usually come away unsatisfied. Tired of the soup and sandwich combos that abound at the food courts and cafes crammed between office buildings downtown, however, I decided to give one of these LA cultural institutions a try.
Opened during the Depression in 1935, Clifton’s Brookdale Cafeteria serves up standard American comfort food in a setting reminiscent of a summer camp. According to its Web site, Clifton’s original mission was to serve those who needed a hot meal at a low price—often for free. Nowadays it’s a novelty for its kitsch décor and I was curious to see if the food was also one of the reasons it’s been able to survive for so long.
After picking my way past storefronts selling gaudy gold jewelry and slinky polyester dresses, I scan the crumbling buildings of the old Broadway Theatre District for Clifton’s Cafeteria. I don’t realize I’m there until I nearly stumble on a bit of inlaid floor that spells out the restaurant’s name in Art Deco glory. Slightly disconcerted by the “B” rating posted in the tinted windows, I pushed my way through the doors and past tree stumps and several plastic molded bears to the back of the restaurant. After grabbing a tray from a wobbly stack, I am greeted by glistening dishes of jello cubes and sticky slices of cake. Grabbing dessert is tempting but I resist and make my way around the U-bend of the dining hall.
It’s not until reaching the hot plate area that I realize the menu in the entrance hall was more than decorative. Without absorbing its contents I was at a loss at what to order. After observing a few patrons in front of me I figured out that the specials seemed to be fajitas, roast turkey with stuffing, bbq ribs, chicken teriyaki, salmon, fried shrimp, and something called enchilada rice. In the end I opted for what seemed hearty and safe: roast beef with mashed potatoes and gravy, a dish of macaroni and cheese, and a slice of cheesecake with strawberry topping. I brought my own drink.
Tray in hand, I navigated up the stairs to secure a table overlooking the open dining room below. While digging into my mashed potatoes that tasted disappointingly like instant, I took notice of the walls made to look like hewn wood and the faded paintings of Western scenes. Chewing my way through roast beef that lacked a pink center and seemed stringy, I noted that my fellow diners fell into two demographics: families with young children or patrons that looked as if they had been coming here daily for the past four decades. Besides the kids I was easily the youngest one there.
The biggest disappointment of the meal was my macaroni and cheese. It appeared to be made from white cheddar and had a layer of cooked cheese on top. After breaking through this layer the dish consisted of oversized macaroni noodles swimming in a pool of oil and butter without any discernable cheese. It seemed that Clifton’s did not put in enough cheese or for some reason the baked mac did not set. Thankfully, they did better with their dessert. The cheesecake was by far the highlight of my meal. The strawberries were a nice accent to the creamy texture of the cheesecake, and it wasn’t too dense or rich. It also seemed homemade, unlike my mashed potatoes.
On Clifton’s Web site they claim to make hundreds of items fresh daily but I wonder at the validity of this claim. Their motto also seems a little outdated: “Dine Free Unless Delighted". I would call my dining experience there less than delightful but didn’t feel compelled to test their claim. It would have been too heartless to point out the lackluster food to the staff of a restaurant that has survived 70 years in the same location. Even though the quality of the food is mediocre at best and the Western décor has started to lose its shine, Clifton’s is still worth a visit. Just stick to the cheesecake or Jell-O cubes and reflect on times past while gazing at one of the green waterfalls or the moose head above the fireplace.
Clifton’s Brookdale Cafeteria
648 South Broadway, Los Angeles, California 90014
Telephone: 213.627.1673
Open 7 days a week - 6:30 a.m. - 7:30 p.m.
Where should the Downtown Diner go next? Send in your recommendations for cafés, bakeries, coffee shops, or your favorite lunch spot in the Downtown area to wertens@gmail.com
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For another great lunch place downtown, try the Breadwinner at 801 S Grand Avenue - 323-627-3599
Worst restaurant ever! Gawd, such a bad hipster(ish) magnate - they type of place you go to after a long night of crocheting and ariel pink! The food tastes like shit - it's novel to echo/highland park via Brentwood kids who've never eaten bad cafeteria food before. I've eaten shrimp off an Acapulco's floor without hesitation but I couldn't eat more thana single fork of Mac & Chee. And it was like $15 bucks for an entree, two sides, bread and drink. I'm not a chiseler, but I've eaten way better for way less.
worst. place. EVER
Clifton's a hipster "magnate," Steve? Pfffft, yeah you're credible. Apparently you've slurped down too many sea creatures off Acapulco floors for it not only to affect your spelling cortex but also to leave you oddly entitled to overstate your case (not to mention admit personal eating fetishes that are probably best kept to yourself).
Nevermind that Clifton's is a cherished landmark, their food is fine and good and reasonably priced. If it tastes like shit to you it's probably because you seem to favor of putting your tongue where only feet should dare to go.
^LOL... this is hilarious.
Anyway, I ate here yesterday on a walking photo tour I did. It was great -- I had the spaghetti with garlic bread and "enchilada rice," which in actuality states on the display card that it's enchiladas for one price or enchiladas -with- rice for slightly more.
I wasn't expecting the most delicious food ever, but it was satisfying and cheap.
By the way, the decor is supposed to be "South Seas" and not "Summer Camp."
Ermm, sorry, I must be having brain problems. It _is_ "Summer Camp" after all. Apparently I didn't connect the fact that there are no bears in the South Seas.
Rico,
Thanks for your comment... they actually used to have a South Seas themed restaurant but it closed a while ago.
What kind of photo tour were you on? I'm a photographer so I'm always interested in meeting with other LA photogs. :)
This is from LA Time machines:
"Clifton’s Cafeteria is credited with saving the lives of many down and out people during the depression with its "pay what you wish" policy. Founded by Clifford E. Clinton, the Brookdale branch was once the national headquarters for "Meals for Millions Foundation" a nonprofit corporation to prevent starvation (apparently in the US in the 1930s but I believe continues to this day). They also developed a special 5 cent meal served to 500 patrons a day "with the nutritional equivalent of beef, green peas, milk and potatoes". It was called "multi-purpose food". The meal checks used to say "Regardless of the amount on this check our cashier will cheerfully accept whatever you wish to pay - or you dine free". "
Sorry Will... I'm dyslexic and i was typing quickly as i was talking to a co-worker. An error, I admit, though one that has nothing to do with my palate (I'm pretty sure I'm okay with that one, yeah?). And the shrimp story was to illustrate the extremity of my acceptance of the most disgusting thing imaginable and that the Clifton's Mac & Cheese exceeded that level of grossness. Kinda like saying, "I would even kiss your mother before i would kiss that fugly chick."
Anyway, I've eaten at some of the best restaurants in los angeles - I didn't expect to get Grace or Campanile because it's not that kind of place, but the food is offensively bad! When I go to a restaurant, I go for the food, not the history lesson. I don't care if the Linbergh baby was born coat room, the food sucks. On it's best day it tastes like a TV dinner equivalent (and looks eerily similar to one as well!). I wouldn't eat at this place again if they were giving it away for free... if you're content with "decent" or "fine" then whatevs. For about the same price, i would much rather do Phillips, Coles, Farmer Boys, BBQ King, or any of the great, inexpensive places in lil Tokyo.
Aw Steve ya sly "bastard"... the quote marks are cute but why'd you have to go and bring my mother into this? A true dyslexic would know better, much less one trying so ineffectually to simultaneously talk and type.
Mmmm, Farmer Boys. Mmmm, BBQ King. And are you referring to Koraku in Little Tokyo? Best.Mabodon.Ever. Love that they're open until 3am.
Ya "got" me! Damn. I've committed the crime of malapropism. I am an asshole. your ad-hominem campaign has succeeded!
... But Clifton's still "sucks."
Best comment thread on LAist, ever. Thanks Big Steve and Will.
Tony, as someone who enjoyed the Clifton's in Century City as a kid, it saddens me to say that the only decent cafeteria food left in SoCal is
Beadle's in Pasadena.
i hooked it up with their brisket last saturday and got well filled. taste on. and as for price, who the hell needs and entree, two sides, bread and a drink. no wonder you spent so much.
I love Clifton's because I grew up eating there when my family lived downtown. Clifton's means family, hearty food, and good memories. And no, it's not gourmet food; it's cafeteria food. It used to be better, too. Maybe one day it will go back to the way it was.